Neues Rathaus Carillon, Munich
While we were staying in Ulm, we decided on a day trip to Munich. Partly to check out some of the extensive Christmas Markets, partly just because it is a large city with an interesting history and pretty buildings.
The Christmas Markets – yes, there are more than one in Munich – are pretty extensive. The great thing about this is because they are spread out, there is less chance of the crowds getting too constricted. We left the train station and started walking towards the Neues Rathaus, soon encountering stalls selling ornaments, sweets, sausages, nativity scene parts and kitchenware. All of it great quality, all of it enticing. We arrived in the square in front of the Neues Rathaus moments before the famous carillon started, so we got to see the whole show. If you are in Munich, make sure you catch the carillon in action.
Asamkirche, Munich
Once we had wandered around the Markets a bit, we decided to follow the walk on the Lonely Planet Munich iphone app (I was lucky enough to get this when it was going free, but it would still probably be wroth paying for if you are visiting the city). This walk included one of my favourite churches in all of Europe, Asamkirche. Think of the most baroque, roccoco over-the-top religious decoration you can, then add some. Built by two very dedicated brothers who intended it as their own private church, it’s full of gold, gilt, glitz and perhaps a bit of glamour. There are putti, skeletons, clouds and saints. It’s tiny, yet every surface seems to be covered in ostentatious decoration. We also visited the Alter Peter, and took in the outside of the Cathedral Church of our Lady, the twin tours of which are the symbol for Munich. Another striking religious building in Munich is the new Ohel Jakob Synagogue.
Not all of our trip to Munich was walking around outside. We also did some walking around inside, at the Residenz. Former seat of government and home of the Bavarian Dukes, the items and interiors span a range of eras, though almost all of them seem to have had an emphasis on ostentation. Take for example the Antiquarium which was a hall to house a collection of classical sculpture. Rather than build a large impressive hall, it had to have decoration on nearly every available surface. Somehow it still seems to have an almost stark magnificence, perhaps because of the huge barrel ceiling.
The Antiquarium was probably Willem’s favourite part of the Residenz, and he had a lot of fun looking at all the busts and trying to work out the Roman emperors, generals and consuls. He spent a lot of time thinking about how it would be great if he had his bust in a hall like this, and what he would like his Roman name to be. The Residence Museum is open daily in the summer from 9am to 6pm and in the winter from 10am to 5pm. Adult admission to the Residnce is 6 Euros with concessions at 5 Euros (2010 prices), children are free. Separate admission prices are charged for visiting the Treasury and the Theatre.
By the time we left the Residenz it was snowing, and we spent much of our remaining time walking around deserted snow covered parks or up and down streets marvelling at the architecture. Willem was a bit put out when Steve threw a snowball at him, but soon got over when he was allowed to return the assault.
A single day in Munich is barely enough time to scratch the surface, but it is also perfect for a day trip as the city centre is compact, there is a good mix of historical periods, and there are lots of interesting buildings, fountains, statues and people to look at. And if you can combine it with the Christmas Markets, all the better.
